Q&A with Banquet Chef A-Yong

　How did you become a chef? Were you an apprentice? Was it your own interest, or did you pick it up from your father?

　I learnt cooking from my father. Together, we have 65 years of experience as outdoor banquet chefs. As his successor, I've been in charge for 30 to 40 years now. One of my kids is now at the University of Queensland studying hospitality while another is in Japan learning to be a chef. They often discuss cooking and menus with me, and their overseas experience gives me a great deal of inspiration.

　The outdoor banquet is a cultural fixture in southern Taiwan and the competition is very intense. How have you managed to maintain your lead in the outdoor banquet culture?

　I started learning about cooking from my father at an early age, so I have always had very sensitive taste buds. Southern Taiwan grows a lot of great produce such as fruits, vegetables and seafood, and these are what cooking is all about. I like to travel, too, so I frequently visit other countries to sample their cuisine. When I come back, I add the dishes I enjoyed overseas into my own banquets. So in our menus, you not only get traditional Taiwanese flavors but also a seasoning of foreign cooking techniques or concepts. This is why we have remained popular with our customers. In the past few years, we've built two mobile kitchen trucks as well, a first in Taiwan. With the mobile kitchen, we not only solve the old problem with outdoor banquets of not having proper cooking space but can also keep ingredients fresher and the environment cleaner. The mobile kitchen concept was something that I picked up overseas and then refined. A good chef must not only master the basic skills but also constantly update his or her thinking. What are really important for a good chef are the three principles: character, standard and quality. Good character translates into attention to detail. Standard leads to better hygiene and ingredients. Quality is what delivers customer satisfaction.

　What is your approach to menu design?

　Our menus are based around Chinese cuisine with a Western touch. The dishes and cooking methods are adjusted seasonally as well. For example, July is the best season for mangrove crabs and mangoes are at their best in the summer. If something is out of season, we use other produce instead. We also use ingredients grown in southern Taiwan as much as possible because fresh ingredients don't need a lot of cooking or seasoning to bring out their flavor. Different ingredients require different cooking methods. Braising is what makes meats sweet and tender, while seafood is best served by steaming. Stir-frying keeps vegetables crispy while simmering over a low flame makes the best soups. A chef must make adjustments according to the ingredients. In my banquet menu, for example, I like to include "Taiwanese Style Braised Roast". The meat is braised for a long time then roasted with charcoal to bring out the fragrance. This kind of "inner flavor" is something you'll only find in outdoor banquet culture.

　Can you give us a simple introduction to outdoor banquet culture and how to really get into it?

　Outdoor banquets are all about the atmosphere. It's a food culture where friends and relatives can get together to eat, drink and be merry. The most common setting for outdoor banquets is weddings or temple celebrations. The host invites local friends, relatives, neighbors and their families to get together near their home or in the local square to share in the excitement. There are sometimes singers and dancers to help liven up the mood as well. There's no need to worry about restaurant etiquette and everyone can get a dose of the host's great joy in a very casual setting. This kind of closeness and excitement is the essence of outdoor banquet culture. So, if you want to get into outdoor banquet culture, just relax and enjoy the atmosphere.